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3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Modgl.)

J. A *BRAUTIGAM SWEAT BAND SEWING MACHINE.

N0. $36,20 Patented Fab. 16, 1886.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheath-Sheet 2. J. A. BRAUTIGAM'. SWEAT'BAND SEWING MACHINE.

No. 336,204. Patented Feb. 16, 1886.

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- ATTORNEYS.

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 31 J. A. BRAUTIGAM.

SWBAT'BAND SEWING MACHINE.

No. 336,204. Patented Feb. '16, 1886.

. WITNESSES: Q. wiyw fiwzm/ I ATTORNEYS Nrrn STATES JOSEPH A. BRAUTIGAM, on NEW YORK, N. Y.

, SWEAT-BAND SEWINGH-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION, forming part of Letters Patent No, 336,204,:1ated February 16. 1886.

Application filed March 11, 1885 Serial No.158A02; (No model.)

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH A. BRAUTIGAM, of the city, county, and State of New .Yoilt, have invented. certain new and usefni. im' provcments in SweatBand Sewing-Machines, of which the following is aspecifica'tion.

This invention has reference to an improved sewing-machine for-making sweats for hats and caps, in which the reed-cover is attached thereto-by stitchingin imitation of hand-whipping; and the invention consists of a sweatband sewing-machine having a'vertically-reciprocating needle-bar that is guided in a needle-bar box to which a horizontally-reciprov the machine. The grooved camimparts horizontally-reciprocating motion to the needlebar, the cam-groove being so shaped that for one-third of itscircumference the needle-bar remains at one end of its horizontal while for the remaining two-thirds of the circumference of the'cam-groove the needle-bar remains at the other end of its horizontal stroke, so as to make two stitches of the needle. The feed mechanism is operated intermittentl y and feeds the sweat-band before every third stitch of the'needle.

The feed mechanism is operated by the main and intermediate vertical shaft of the ma: chine, which actuates by a transmitting-gearing a mutilated gear-whecl, which is provided with teeth at about one-third of its circumference, Tne mutilated gear-wheel meshes with a loose pinion on the vertical shaft,which is thrown in or out of mesh with a laterallymovable and spring-actuated ring-guide having teeth that interlock with the loose pinion. A projecting nose of the ring-guide is acted upon by a cam-segment on the mutilated gear-f wheel, whereby the ringguide is moved back sons to clear the loose pinion. An eccentric keyed to the loose pinion aetnates thereby the feed-dever and feed devices, whereby the sweat needle-bar and its box.

stroke,

D byacoilar, D, that is keyed to the shaft D. 'Thecam D is rotated by a gear-whee1,e,

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents abottom view of my improved hatband sewingmachinc. Fig. l is a face view of a-sweat-band for hats and caps made by the mlchine. Fig. l" is a detail top view of the feed devices. myimproved machine,partlyin section, showing the mechanism for operating the feed. Fig. 2shows,details of the cam for imparting horizontal]y-reciprocating motion to the Fig. 3 is a top; view of the upper arm of the machine, showing the needle-bar and its needle-bar box. 'Figs. 4and 5 are horizontal sections on line a; ,c,

Fig. 2, drawn on a larger scale, showing the i echanism for imparting intermittent ,motion to; the feed devices; and Fig. 6 is a vertical longitudinal section on line 3 3 Fig. 5.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts. l

Referring to the drawings, A represents the cloth-plate, B the upper arm, and Q the main shaft, of my improved sweatbm d sewing machine.- The needle-bar D is vertically reciprocated by a crank-pin of the main shaft (J, said crank-pin engaging a grooved socket of the needle-beans customary in sewing-machines. The needle-bar is surrounded at three sides by a needlebar box, D, which is guided in top. and bottom openings of the head B of thenpper arm, B. To the needle-bar box I) is rigidly attached a horizontal rod, D", which is guided in an opening, d, of the head B and by a bracket, D, of the and B. A collar, (2, is

attached to the horizontal rod D and provided with a pivot-pin, d, from which a connectingrod, D, extends to a pivotpin, d, of a slidepiece, d, which latter is guided by a groove, (i of an oscillatinggarmy-D that is pivoted at part of thearm B. -An anti-friction roller, d, is attached .to the rear side of the oscillating arm D and en'gTiged by grooved cam, D,

that. turns loosciyi'on a short shaft, D', at-

Fig. 2 is'aside elevation of its lower end to the bracket 1) or the vertical tached to the'vetti'al part of the arm B. The 1 grooved cain' tD v is retained on the short shaft on themain shaft 0, which gear-wheel meshes with a gear-wheel, e, on the earn 1)", The relvertically, a main or ncedle-bar-operating which the needle makes a stitch along the edge of the sweat-band through the reed-cover, as shownby reference to the sweat-band shown in Fig. 1. This formation of the stitches is repeated for each full rotation of the cam D,

so that the sweat-band is stitched in imitation of hand-whipping by a series of double stitches extending at a suitable angle of inclination across the edge of the sweat-band and by a longitudinal row of stitches running along the edge of the sweat-band.

I have filed a separate application for Letb ters Patent for the sweat shownin Fig. 1 at ent- 1. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with a vertically-reciprocating needle-bar, of a needle-bar box in which the needle is guided shaft,ja primary gear-wheel thereon, a second gear-wheel meshing with said primary gearwheel, but havingthree times as many teeth as the latter, a cam rotating coincidently with said second gear-wheel, and connections between said cam and needle-bar box, whereby the former may move the latter horizontally to cause the needle-bar to reciprocate twice in one vertical plane and once in another, substantially as set forth.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with a needle-bar, of a main shaft, and connections for reciprocating said bar vertically, a primary gear-wheel on said main shaft, a second gear-wheel meshing with said primary gear-wheel, but having three times as many teeth as the latter, a grooved cam rotating coincidently with said second gear-wheel, a

movable box in which the said needle-bar is guided vertically, a horizontal guide rod or arm rigidly attached to said needle-bar box, a

grooved oscillatingarm or lever having an adjusting slide-piece and an anti-friction roller, the latter engaging said grooved cam, and a connecting-rod pivotally attached to said guide-rod and oscillatory arm, whereby the said needle-bar will be reciprocated vertically and horizontally and will be retained at one end of its horizontal movement the proper time to make two stitches and will make one stitch at the opposite end of said movement, substantially as set forth.

3. The combination, with a vertically-reciprocating needle-bar, of mechanism-as a .grooved cam geared to rotate once to three rotations of the main orneedle-bar-operating shaft, and connections between said cam and" needle-bar-for imparting horizontal reciprocating movements to the latter .so that the needle may take two stitches at one end of the horizontal movement and one at the other end thereof alternately, and a feeding mechanism comprising a cam or eccentric and gearing to rotate the latter once while the needle makes three stitches for moving the work only between the two stitches which occur at the one end of the said'horizontal movement of the needle-bar, substantially as set forth.

4. A feed mechanism for sewing-machines, consisting of a transmitting-gearing operated from the main shaft, a mutilated gear-wheel,

'a cam-segment on said mutilated gear-wheel,

a loose feed-pinion adapted to mesh with the mutilated pinion, a laterally-reciprocating ring guide having teeth interlocking with the teeth of the feed-pinion, an eccentric keyed to said feed-pinion, and a feed-lever and feed device operated by said eccentric, substan tially as set forth.

5. The combination, with a transmitting gearing operated from the main shaft, a mutilated gearwheel having teeth along onethird of its circumference, aloose feed-pinion, a cam-segment attached to the mutilated gear, a laterally-reciprocating and spring-actuated ring-guide actuated by said cam-segment and having teeth interlocking with the loose feedpiuion, an eccentric keyed to theloose pinion, and a feed-lever actuated by said eccentric and operated once for every third rotation of. the main shaft, substantially as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name in presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOSEPH A. BRAUTIGAM. Witnessesi PAUL GOEPEL, SIDNEYMANN. 

